The creation journey of a watch designer

Watches from Amsterdam

CHAPTER 1:

Principles & Design Language

Mastering a unique visual design language

Understanding design principles has been a real game-changer for me as a designer. Diving into these principles enabled me to infuse my work with a higher level of craftsmanship and meaning. There are abundant ways to convert any vision into a visually striking design. Therefore, it’s essential to work with principles that speak a visual language. Implementing every thinkable design principle into your concept doesn’t immediately give it a deeper meaning, or make it more visually striking. You’ll have to be thoughtful and considerate about what you’re trying to present to the world.

The principles I worked with to create the Accuratesse series are as follows:

  • Perspective
  • Contrast
  • Emphasis
  • Balance
  • Texture
  • Pattern
  • Unity
  • Depth
  • Proportion
  • Rhythm

These principles are the practical tools that have guided me in creating my final concept for Van Adel. They have helped me see how each element interacts, ensuring that my design is visually stunning, meaningful, and functional. The understanding of design principles has empowered me to develop a design language for Van Adel that stands out, resonates with my audience, and effectively communicates the values of the brand.

Exploring the principles used

Perspective: Seeing Beyond the Surface

Perspective is more than just a technique to show depth or viewing direction; it’s a way to lead the viewer’s eye and create a sense of realism. By manipulating perspective, I can influence how a particular object is perceived, adding meaningful elements by creating a focal point. If we look at the Accuratesse Series, I purposefully wanted the sub-seconds to be placed diagonally, creating a diagonal viewpoint.

Contrast: Creating Visual Interest

Contrast is the principle that helps designers create emphasis and visual interest. By contrasting elements with different colors, sizes, shapes, or textures, you can highlight key areas and guide the viewer’s attention to a certain point. It’s the difference between the light and dark, the large and small, the rough and smooth. Without contrast, a design can feel flat and uninspiring.

The Accuratesse consists of different subtle textures, matte and polished. For the final concept, our dials will be crafted with a color gradience, also called fumé, creating a sense of sophistication.

Emphasis: Drawing the Eye

Emphasis is about making certain parts of your design stand out. It’s like using a highlighter on a page of text. Emphasis can be created through size, color, placement, or any other visual tool that makes an element more prominent. By emphasizing key elements, you can clearly giving important parts more attention.

I used the emphasis technique, such as a sunken diagonal sub-seconds display with concentric circles and a matte convex trackline. Or by designing a raised minute trackline with numerals in contrasting colors.

Balance: Finding the Sweet Spot

Balance is the distribution of visual weight in a design. It can be symmetrical, where elements are evenly distributed, or asymmetrical, where balance is achieved through contrast and variety. Balanced designs feel stable and aesthetically pleasing, making them naturally comfortable for the viewer to look at.

With the Accuratesse Series, I created its well-balanced appeal by using geometrical shapes, striking colors. The imbalanced element is the a-symmetric placement of the sub-seconds display, which effortlessly pulls the attention of the viewer.

Texture: Adding Tangible Dimensions

Texture can bring a tactile dimension to your work, making it more relatable and appealing. Whether through the use of finishing techniques or by different materials, texture adds a tangible feel that enhances the overall visual experience. By incorporating various textures, you can evoke interest, and spark the viewer’s interaction with a design. Texture helps break the monotony, adding complexity that invites viewers to explore more deeply.

Proportion: Relationship Of Elements

Proportion refers to the size relationship between elements in a design. Good and well-thought-out proportion ensures that all parts of the design are in harmony with each other and with the overall composition. It helps in creating a sense of order and predictability, making the design more understandable and appealing.

The size proportions of the Accuratesse Series are calculated with the Pi ratio (π). I looked at its value, 3.14159, and used that as a base for the dial size (31.416mm), and to calculate the diameter size of the sub-seconds display.

Rhythm: Creating a Visual Beat

Rhythm in design is like a visual beat, guiding the viewer’s eye through the composition in a deliberate way. It can be achieved through the repetition of elements or through the strategic placement of different elements to create a sense of movement. Rhythm adds a dynamic quality to a design, making it feel more alive and engaging.

For the Accuratesse Series, I implied rhythm by creating subtle texture similarities. The hour and sub-seconds trackline share the same matte convex texture. And I made sure every element, other than the sub-seconds display, is symmetrically placed and decorated.

Pattern: The Power of Repetition

Patterns are the heartbeat of a great design, bringing rhythm and predictability that our minds find pleasing. Repetition of elements creates a sense of order and can reinforce a theme or message. Patterns can be bold and obvious, or subtle and intricate, but their consistent use ties a design together, making it a cohesive story.

For my design language, the use of different patterns, bold or subtle, is very important. The case and bezel of the Accuratesse Series have mirror-polished chamfers and a brushed side profile. The dial comprises of different patterns, such as concentric circles, and a circular brushed minute trackline. The bead-blasted hour ring is convex-shaped, the same as the seconds trackline.

Unity: Bringing it All Together

Unity is the sense of harmony between all parts of the design, making it feel like a whole. This principle ensures that all elements work together and complement each other. Unity is achieved through the consistent use of colors, fonts, shapes, and textures, creating a cohesive look that communicates a clear message.

The unity in the Accuratesse Series is quite obviously visible. The convex-shaped sectors, and the matte and polished finish of the case and dial. All these elements work in perfect unity with each other.

Depth: Creating Immersive Spaces

Incorporating depth into a design adds layers of richness and realism. Depth allows to create a sense of space and perspective, making sure a design feels more immersive and engaging. By playing with light and shadow, you can give flat surfaces a three-dimensional quality that draws the viewer in. This technique helps create a more dynamic visual experience, transforming simple designs into lifelike compositions that captivate and hold attention.

For the Accuratesse, I created depth by implying different finishes, matte and polished. And by layering elements with different thicknesses to achieve a three-dimensional appearance.

Each design concept I’ve ever created has been an opportunity to apply these principles in innovative ways. For example, using contrast effectively highlights key features of a design, drawing viewers’ attention to the most important aspects. Implementing textured finishes evokes visual interest, ensuring the design is dynamic and interesting. Balance and harmony ensure that all elements, no matter how diverse, work together seamlessly, creating a cohesive and aesthetically pleasing whole. Understanding perspective and proportion helped me create designs that felt realistic and engaging because they added depth and dimension.

This approach not only refined my creative process but also significantly elevated the impact of my final work. This blend of creativity and structured thinking has enabled me to develop a distinct and memorable design voice that truly reflects my vision and values. With this, I hope to build a connection with our community by making the design feel more tangible and meaningful.

Thank you for reading this chapter, I hope it gave you a glimpse of the journey of finding my design voice and that you enjoyed it. In the next chapters, I’ll discuss the importance of utilizing the right materials for making the case and bracelet or buckle. Followed by choosing the best watch hands for a watch design. See you then!

FMS de Groot

CHAPTER 2:

About Watch-making Materials

Exploring The Materials For Our Watch

In the world of watchmaking, every little detail counts, and the choice of materials is one of the most critical decisions in the design process. The metals selected for the case and bracelet aren’t just about aesthetics—they define the watch’s character, influence its durability, and affect how it feels on the wrist. From the timeless allure of gold to the modern innovation of carbon fiber, each material has its own story, and understanding these materials helps reveal the craftsmanship behind every timepiece.

As I focused on the process of creating the final concept for the Van Adel debut collection, I spent a great deal of time researching and experimenting with various materials. The goal was to ensure that the final product not only looked stunning but also stood the test of time. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular materials in the industry, focusing on their composition, features, and the visual beauty they bring to watchmaking when adorned with the right finishes.

These principles are the practical tools that have guided me in creating my final concept for Van Adel. They have helped me see how each element interacts, ensuring that my design is visually stunning, meaningful, and functional. The understanding of design principles has empowered me to develop a design language for Van Adel that stands out, resonates with my audience, and effectively communicates the values of the brand.

Van Adel - Watches From Amsterdam - Watchmaking Materials - Quiet Luxury Watches

Common watch case making materials

Industrial 316L Steel

316L stainless steel is a favorite in the watch industry, known for its durability, corrosion resistance, and affordability. Composed primarily of iron, chromium, and nickel, 316L steel has a sleek, modern appearance that fits a wide range of styles, from sporty to dressy.

When finished, 316L steel can be polished to a mirror-like shine or brushed for a more rugged, industrial look. Its resistance to scratches and tarnishing makes it ideal for everyday wear, ensuring that the watch maintains its appearance over time.

Luxurious 904L Steel

904L stainless steel is a higher-grade steel often used in luxury watches. Its composition includes more chromium, molybdenum, and copper than 316L steel, giving it superior corrosion resistance, particularly in harsh environments.

Visually, 904L steel has a richer luster compared to 316L, making it stand out even more when polished to a high gloss. Its ability to retain this shine over time, even with minimal maintenance, adds to its appeal in high-end watchmaking. Whether polished or brushed, 904L steel offers a refined look that enhances the watch’s premium feel.

The Allure of Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is perhaps the most iconic material in watchmaking. Known for its warm, rich hue, yellow gold is an alloy typically composed of pure gold mixed with copper and silver. This combination gives it strength while maintaining its luxurious appearance. When decorated with traditional watchmaking finishes, yellow gold takes on a brilliant polish that catches the light beautifully. The metal’s natural warmth is accentuated with techniques like brushing or satin-finishing, adding texture and depth to its surface. Yellow gold watches exude a sense of timeless luxury, making them a staple in high-end collections.

Sophisticated White Gold

White gold is a refined alternative to yellow gold, offering a cooler, more modern aesthetic. It is usually made by alloying gold with metals like palladium or nickel, which gives it a silver-white appearance. To enhance its luster, white gold is often plated with rhodium, adding a reflective finish that heightens its elegance.

White gold can be polished to a high shine or given a matte finish for a more understated look. Its versatility makes it a popular choice for both classic and contemporary watch designs, blending the opulence of gold with a subtle, sophisticated edge.

Titanium: A Lightweight Champion

Titanium is known for its incredible strength-to-weight ratio, being both lighter and stronger than steel. It’s also hypoallergenic, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin. Titanium has a naturally matte, greyish appearance that gives watches a modern, industrial look.

In terms of finishing, titanium can be polished to a shine, though it typically retains a more muted, matte finish. It’s lightweight and rugged appearance makes it a favorite for sports and adventure watches, offering comfort without sacrificing durability.

Platinum: Pinnacle of Prestige

Platinum is the epitome of luxury in watchmaking, prized for its rarity, weight, and durability. It is an incredibly dense metal, giving watches a substantial, weighty feel on the wrist. Platinum’s natural white sheen is more subdued than that of white gold but exudes an unmistakable sense of prestige.

When polished, platinum has a unique, almost liquid-like shine that sets it apart from other metals. It can also be given a satin or brushed finish for a more understated elegance. Platinum’s ability to develop a patina over time adds to its charm, making each watch unique to its wearer.

Less common & innovative materials

Carbon Fiber: Modern Innovation

Carbon fiber is a relatively new material in watchmaking, valued for its lightweight and high-strength properties. It’s composed of thin strands of carbon woven together, creating a distinctive textured appearance that stands out in any collection.

Carbon fiber’s natural finish is matte, with a unique pattern that varies from piece to piece. This makes each watch case crafted from carbon fiber visually striking and highly individual. Its durability and modern aesthetic make it a popular choice for high-performance and avant-garde designs.

Recycled Steel: The Eco-Friendly Choice

Recycled steel is gaining popularity as brands focus more on sustainability. This material is produced by repurposing scrap steel, reducing the need for mining new resources. While its composition is similar to standard steel, the eco-friendly aspect adds an appealing story to the material.

In terms of appearance, recycled steel can be finished just like traditional steel, whether polished to a shine or brushed for a more subdued look. The knowledge that the material is eco-friendly adds to the appeal, particularly for environmentally-conscious consumers.

The materials we use for watch case making

For our debut collection, I chose 904L steel for the case, reflecting our dedication to quality and sophisticated appeal. 904L steel is celebrated for its superior corrosion resistance and ability to maintain a pristine, polished finish over time. This metal not only adds a luxurious sheen to the watch but also ensures it withstands the test of time, making it an ideal choice for a piece designed to be cherished for generations. For the buckle, I opted for 316L steel, known for its strength and durability. By pairing this with a leather strap, we achieve a perfect balance between sophistication and everyday practicality. The 316L steel buckle complements the sleek design of the strap while maintaining the watch’s high standards of quality.

Looking ahead, we are committed to exploring sustainable options and plan to incorporate recycled steel into future collections. Once we find the right partnership with a reliable supplier, recycled steel will allow us to craft beautiful timepieces that align with our values of sustainability without compromising on quality. This future step will further our mission to create watches that stand the test of time in design and their impact on the environment.

In watchmaking, the materials chosen for a watch are as important as the design itself. Each material, whether it’s the classic elegance of yellow gold, the industrial strength of titanium, or the eco-friendly appeal of recycled steel, brings its own set of characteristics that define the watch’s personality. By selecting the right materials and enhancing them with expert finishes, we create timepieces that not only look beautiful but also stand the test of time. As I continue my journey in watch design, I remain committed to exploring and experimenting with these materials to push the boundaries of what a watch can be. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless appeal of traditional metals or the innovation of modern materials, there’s a story behind every choice, and that’s what makes each watch truly unique.

Thank you for reading the 2nd chapter, where I discussed watchmaking materials for case-making purposes and which ones we chose to use. Once again, I hope it was insightful and helped you understand our development process and decision-making. In the next chapters, I’ll talk about the ‘WHY’ of it all, and how to choose the best watch hands for a watch design.

I look forward to sharing some of my sketches. See you then!

FMS de Groot

CHAPTER 3:

The 'WHY' & how of it all

Why & how my watch-making journey started

From a young age, I’ve always been driven by the desire to create something impactful—something that resonates with people and stands the test of time. Unlike others who found their calling early in life, I struggled to pinpoint exactly what I wanted to do. The one constant in my life, though, was my ability to create and envision. Whether it was producing music, making wooden tables, or repairing old radios, I always found solace in making things with my hands and creativity. However, none of these pursuits felt sustainable as a lifelong passion. It wasn’t until my 30s that everything started to come into focus.

It was around this time that I became interested in my family history. As I dove into finding out more, I discovered that on my mother’s distant side, there were clockmakers—craftsmen who devoted their lives to the art of timekeeping. This revelation sparked something within me, a connection I hadn’t fully understood before. Simultaneously, as the world slowed down during the pandemic, I began drawing again. This creative outlet reignited my passion for design and fueled my desire to create something truly extraordinary and functional.

“To create something truly extraordinary, I realized I had to follow my own path, rather than the conventional route of a watchmaking apprentice.”

The allure of time-keeping instruments

Watches and clocks have always held a special place in my life, largely thanks to my grandparent’s collections. I was fascinated by the intricacies of these timepieces, from pocketwatches to clocks and vintage dress watches—the way they combined art, engineering, and history into something you could wear on your wrist. Yet, despite my love for watches, pursuing this passion felt out of reach for a long time, and it sometimes still does. I believed that to truly understand the art of watchmaking, one had to follow the traditional path of education, internships, and working their way up in a renowned watchmaking company. But as I was getting older, I realized that this path wasn’t for me. Time is ticking, and I knew that if I wanted to create something truly my own, I had to take a different approach.

So, I began drawing watch designs—everything from classic silhouettes to bold, geometrical shapes. Each sketch was an exploration of what I found interesting and unique in the world of horology and beyond it. I started to imagine features that could set my designs apart from the rest, and this process of illustration became the foundation for Van Adel’s debut collection. Every detail was carefully considered, not just from a functional perspective, but from a design standpoint that reflected my vision.

va-sketch-r1-s1

Early Design Inspirations & Challenges

My inspiration comes from a designer’s perspective, where the fundamental principles of design guide every decision I make. Before putting pencil to paper, I ask myself: How can I utilize key principles and manipulate them to create a functional and meaningful design? For certain features of a watch, depending on its genre, there is a natural expectation of how it should look—whether it’s the classic appeal of a dress watch or the rugged functionality of a sports model. This is where my unconventional approach kicks in. I believe iconic design comes from pushing boundaries and questioning the status quo. I seek to defy expectations, but not through bold, radical changes. Instead, I focus on subtle adaptations—those small, almost unnoticeable shifts that transform a watch from something expected into something extraordinary. It’s this nuanced approach that I believe sets Van Adel apart as a brand, allowing each timepiece to stand out while still honoring the timeless traditions of watchmaking.

When I started designing watches, one of the biggest challenges was mastering the technical aspects of watchmaking. The complexity of movements, the precision required in case construction, and the intricate details of proportions were all new territory for me. Every decision had to be made with both form and function in mind, and achieving that delicate balance was a challenge in itself. Finding the right materials was another obstacle. I was determined to use only the highest quality metals and components, but sourcing them—especially as a new brand—proved difficult. There were times when I questioned whether I could achieve the level of craftsmanship I envisioned. Balancing functionality with aesthetics was a constant juggling act. A watch isn’t just a piece of art; it’s a precision instrument that needs to perform flawlessly. Ensuring that my designs were not only visually compelling but also functionally reliable was a challenge that required patience, persistence, and a willingness to learn from every setback.

Breakthrough Moments

One of the most pivotal moments in my journey was seeing my father’s reaction to my first real-life prototype. When he held that watch in his hands and saw my vision materialize into something tangible, his pride and approval were the validation I needed. It was a fundamental moment that confirmed I was on the right path, and it strengthened my resolve to pursue this passion wholeheartedly. That moment wasn’t just about the design; it was about the connection between generations and the legacy I hoped to build with Van Adel.

From a young age, the constant thread in my life has been the desire to create something impactful—something that resonates with people and stands the test of time.

Building a Community and a Legacy

My goal with Van Adel is not just to create beautiful watches, but to build a community of collectors and followers who share my appreciation for craftsmanship and design. I want to secure a spot in the watch market, not through mass production, but by creating unique pieces that are tailored to individual desires and ideas. My vision is to produce only a few dozen timepieces each year—each one a testament to the craftsmanship and passion that goes into its creation.

This journey is more than just a career for me; it’s my life’s work. Through Van Adel, I hope to leave behind a legacy—a collection of timepieces that not only tell time but tell a story. Every watch is a reflection of my journey, my heritage, and my unwavering desire to create something truly extraordinary.

Thank you for reading the 3rd chapter of my journey, where I discussed the ‘WHY’ of it all. I genuinely appreciate your support and time for visiting the Van Adel website and reading my journals. Once again, I hope it was insightful and fun to read. In the next chapters, I’ll discuss choosing the best watch hands for a watch design and I’m excited to share more of my sketches. See you then!

FMS de Groot

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