CHAPTER 2. Exploring Watchmaking Materials
Finding The Right Materials For Our Watch
In the world of watchmaking, every little detail counts, and the choice of materials is one of the most critical decisions in the design process. The metals selected for the case and bracelet aren’t just about aesthetics—they define the watch’s character, influence its durability, and affect how it feels on the wrist. From the timeless allure of gold to the modern innovation of carbon fiber, each material has its own story, and understanding these materials helps reveal the craftsmanship behind every timepiece.
As I focused on the process of creating the final concept for the Van Adel debut collection, I spent a great deal of time researching and experimenting with various materials. The goal was to ensure that the final product not only looked stunning but also stood the test of time. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular materials in the industry, focusing on their composition, features, and the visual beauty they bring to watchmaking when adorned with the right finishes.
These principles are the practical tools that have guided me in creating my final concept for Van Adel. They have helped me see how each element interacts, ensuring that my design is visually stunning, meaningful, and functional. The understanding of design principles has empowered me to develop a design language for Van Adel that stands out, resonates with my audience, and effectively communicates the values of the brand.
Common watch case making materials
Industrial 316L Steel
316L stainless steel is a favorite in the watch industry, known for its durability, corrosion resistance, and affordability. Composed primarily of iron, chromium, and nickel, 316L steel has a sleek, modern appearance that fits a wide range of styles, from sporty to dressy.
When finished, 316L steel can be polished to a mirror-like shine or brushed for a more rugged, industrial look. Its resistance to scratches and tarnishing makes it ideal for everyday wear, ensuring that the watch maintains its appearance over time.
Luxurious 904L Steel
904L stainless steel is a higher-grade steel often used in luxury watches. Its composition includes more chromium, molybdenum, and copper than 316L steel, giving it superior corrosion resistance, particularly in harsh environments.
Visually, 904L steel has a richer luster compared to 316L, making it stand out even more when polished to a high gloss. Its ability to retain this shine over time, even with minimal maintenance, adds to its appeal in high-end watchmaking. Whether polished or brushed, 904L steel offers a refined look that enhances the watch’s premium feel.
The Allure of Yellow Gold
Yellow gold is perhaps the most iconic material in watchmaking. Known for its warm, rich hue, yellow gold is an alloy typically composed of pure gold mixed with copper and silver. This combination gives it strength while maintaining its luxurious appearance. When decorated with traditional watchmaking finishes, yellow gold takes on a brilliant polish that catches the light beautifully. The metal’s natural warmth is accentuated with techniques like brushing or satin-finishing, adding texture and depth to its surface. Yellow gold watches exude a sense of timeless luxury, making them a staple in high-end collections.
Sophisticated White Gold
White gold is a refined alternative to yellow gold, offering a cooler, more modern aesthetic. It is usually made by alloying gold with metals like palladium or nickel, which gives it a silver-white appearance. To enhance its luster, white gold is often plated with rhodium, adding a reflective finish that heightens its elegance.
White gold can be polished to a high shine or given a matte finish for a more understated look. Its versatility makes it a popular choice for both classic and contemporary watch designs, blending the opulence of gold with a subtle, sophisticated edge.
Titanium: A Lightweight Champion
Titanium is known for its incredible strength-to-weight ratio, being both lighter and stronger than steel. It’s also hypoallergenic, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin. Titanium has a naturally matte, greyish appearance that gives watches a modern, industrial look.
In terms of finishing, titanium can be polished to a shine, though it typically retains a more muted, matte finish. It’s lightweight and rugged appearance makes it a favorite for sports and adventure watches, offering comfort without sacrificing durability.
Platinum: Pinnacle of Prestige
Platinum is the epitome of luxury in watchmaking, prized for its rarity, weight, and durability. It is an incredibly dense metal, giving watches a substantial, weighty feel on the wrist. Platinum’s natural white sheen is more subdued than that of white gold but exudes an unmistakable sense of prestige.
When polished, platinum has a unique, almost liquid-like shine that sets it apart from other metals. It can also be given a satin or brushed finish for a more understated elegance. Platinum’s ability to develop a patina over time adds to its charm, making each watch unique to its wearer.
Less common & innovative alloys
Carbon Fiber: Modern Innovation
Carbon fiber is a relatively new material in watchmaking, valued for its lightweight and high-strength properties. It’s composed of thin strands of carbon woven together, creating a distinctive textured appearance that stands out in any collection.
Carbon fiber’s natural finish is matte, with a unique pattern that varies from piece to piece. This makes each watch case crafted from carbon fiber visually striking and highly individual. Its durability and modern aesthetic make it a popular choice for high-performance and avant-garde designs.
Recycled Steel: The Eco-Friendly Choice
Recycled steel is gaining popularity as brands focus more on sustainability. This material is produced by repurposing scrap steel, reducing the need for mining new resources. While its composition is similar to standard steel, the eco-friendly aspect adds an appealing story to the material.
In terms of appearance, recycled steel can be finished just like traditional steel, whether polished to a shine or brushed for a more subdued look. The knowledge that the material is eco-friendly adds to the appeal, particularly for environmentally-conscious consumers.
The materials we use for watch case making
For our debut collection, I chose 904L steel for the case, reflecting our dedication to quality and sophisticated appeal. 904L steel is celebrated for its superior corrosion resistance and ability to maintain a pristine, polished finish over time. This metal not only adds a luxurious sheen to the watch but also ensures it withstands the test of time, making it an ideal choice for a piece designed to be cherished for generations. For the buckle, I opted for 316L steel, known for its strength and durability. By pairing this with a leather strap, we achieve a perfect balance between sophistication and everyday practicality. The 316L steel buckle complements the sleek design of the strap while maintaining the watch’s high standards of quality.
Looking ahead, we are committed to exploring sustainable options and plan to incorporate recycled steel into future collections. Once we find the right partnership with a reliable supplier, recycled steel will allow us to craft beautiful timepieces that align with our values of sustainability without compromising on quality. This future step will further our mission to create watches that stand the test of time in design and their impact on the environment.
In watchmaking, the materials chosen for a watch are as important as the design itself. Each material, whether it’s the classic elegance of yellow gold, the industrial strength of titanium, or the eco-friendly appeal of recycled steel, brings its own set of characteristics that define the watch’s personality. By selecting the right materials and enhancing them with expert finishes, we create timepieces that not only look beautiful but also stand the test of time. As I continue my journey in watch design, I remain committed to exploring and experimenting with these materials to push the boundaries of what a watch can be. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless appeal of traditional metals or the innovation of modern materials, there’s a story behind every choice, and that’s what makes each watch truly unique.
Thank you for reading this 2nd chapter, where I talked about watchmaking materials for case-making purposes. Once again, I hope it was insightful and helped you understand our development process and decision-making. In the next chapters, I’ll discuss choosing the best watch hands for a watch design and look forward to sharing some of my sketches. See you then!
FMS de Groot
